Anti Aging Skin Care Information
An estimated 38 million
Americans born between 1948 and 1962 or "baby boomers"
are approaching middle age, where younger more supple looking skin
is only a memory. Unfortunately, American culture practically worships
a youthful appearance. Stand in line in any check out counter and
you will be reminded of the American quest for youthful skin as
the beautiful models stare back at you.
Aging of the skin occurs
in two ways intrinsic aging and extrinsic aging. Intrinsic (coming
from the inside) aging is a continual, natural process that begins
in the deep layers of your skin early in life. The rate at which
intrinsic aging proceeds is controlled primarily by genetic factors.
Genetically programmed chronologic aging causes biochemical changes
in collagen and elastin, the connective tissues that give skin its
firmness and elasticity. The genetic program for each person is
different, so the loss of skin firmness and elasticity occurs at
different rates and different times in one individual as compared
with another. Intrinsic aging is also affected by changes in an
individual's chemistry over time, as well as changes in the skin's
life cycle. The effects of intrinsic aging alone are usually subtle
including primarily skin laxity or looseness and fine wrinkling.
Superimpose the subtle
changes from intrinsic factors with the more profound extrinsic
factors primarily photo damage (skin damage caused primarily by
chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and the skin begins
to show its age. Cigarette smoking also contributes to aging effects
by the biochemical changes it brings about in skin tissues. Chemicals
inhaled from cigarette smoke constrict tiny blood vessels in the
skin, reducing the oxygen and nutrient supply to delicate facial
tissues. Blood-vessel constriction lasts at least an hour after
a cigarette has been snuffed out. Over many years of smoking, the
oxygen and nutrient deficiencies cause skin to wrinkle prematurely
and lose elasticity (the ability to "bounce back" after
being stretched). It is not unusual for the skin of longtime smokers
to exhibit a grayish pallor.
Extrinsic or photo damage
is a cumulative process that takes place gradually over decades
exhibiting very little early clinical evidence. Photo damage begins
with a child's first exposure to sunlight and accumulates throughout
life with each additional exposure. There is often a 20-30 year
delay between sun exposure and the negative effects appear later
in life. This attributes to our failure to avoid the harmful photo
damage, although the damage is largely preventable. Some eighty-five
percent of what individuals presume as aging is actually secondary
to exposure to the sun.
Most people have little
understanding of how important prevention can be in delaying the
signs of aging," explains Patricia Farris, M.D., a dermatologist
and Assistant Clinical Professor, Tulane University School of Medicine,
Department of Dermatology. "They persist in sunbathing with
little or no protection and begin a protective regimen only after
photodamage has become apparent. When it comes to treatment, they
are confused by cosmetic counter promises of younger, healthier-looking
skin."
Visible Signs of Photo
damage
Erythema (inflammation),
sunburn and tanning are acute reactions that occur within hours
and days of exposure. Chronic photoaging occurs over many years
of UVR exposure and is characterized by mottled hyperpigmentation
(i.e. uneven discoloration, brown spots), skin roughness fine and
coarse wrinkling, sallowness, looseness of the skin, freckles and
telangiectasia (a visible network of enlarged and broken superficial
blood vessels). The severity of these signs tends to increase with
the cumulative amount of sun exposure.
The effects of ectrinsic
factors are evident in the following pictures of two women both
72 years of age. The women on the left was subject to photodamage
throughout the course of her life while the woman on the right skin
was protected:
Skin damage secondary
to photo damage can be reduced by adopting a comprehensive program
of skin care including the following:
In addition to the primarily
common sense methods of avoiding excess UV light mentioned above
there are several promising products that can help reverse some
of the signs of aging skin.
Sunscreens
The importance of the
chronic use of sunscreen cannot be over emphasized. Sunscreens can
be divided into two categories the physical and chemical sunscreens.
The physical sunscreens have the active ingredients which include
Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide, which are insoluble, inorganic
compounds. These work by both absorbing and scattering UV radiation.
Chemical sunscreens contain the active ingredients Octyl Salicylate
and Octyl Methoxycinnamate the exert their mechanism of action by
primarily only absorbing UVB and thus converting it into heat. Some
broad-spectrum products may incorporate a mix of both physical and
chemical sunscreens.
While most sunscreens
are capable of blocking UVB, not all are capable protect against
UVA exposure. Photoaging is know to occur secondary to chronic exposure
of UVA. Some 90% of the visible changes we associate with aging
are actually the result of sun exposure. Protect yourself only use
sunscreens that are capable of blocking both UVA and UVB, with SPF
value of 15 and above.
Renova (Tretinoin)
As a first line of defense
the topical medicaments are best suited.. The most popular topical
regimen used by Dermotologist is the FDA approved Tretinoin 0.05%
cream, marketed as Renova®.
The active ingredient
in Renova is Tretinoin reformulated in a moisturizing cream. Tretinoin
is potent chemical derived from Vitamin A, it smoothes fine lines
by acting on the cells of the dermas, the lower layer of the skin.
When damaged by the sun's ultraviolet rays, the dermis tends to
shrink which results in the outer layer to wrinkle
Glycolic Acid.
Glycolic acid is another
rejuvenating agent frequently used by Dermatologists and Cosmetic
Surgeons. Currently, Glycolic acids can be used for problems such
as acne, photo aging and superficial scar correction. Glycolic acid
can be found in a variety of strengths. In low concentration (5-20%),
glycolics can be used safely by the patient at home on a daily basis.
In higher concentrations performed by physicians glycolic acid peels
make an excellent facial rejuvenating agent.
Antioxidant Creams
Vitamin C and E are two
of the strongest antioxidants found in the skin. They serve to neutralize
free oxy radicals that are formed under the influence of UV radiation.
UVA can also generate free oxy radicals, which are reactive oxygen
bound molecules capable of causing DNA and genetic material damage.
Alterations to DNA genetic material in skin cells is a precursor
to cancer. In addition, these free oxy radicals can also destroy
elastic and collagen fibers resulting in a premature aging process.
Gradually, as the skin loses its elasticity and texture, fine lines,
wrinkles and sagging of the skin appear. The use of topical antioxidants
in the management of photo aging can have a profound affect on decreasing
the aging process. Vitamin C is also necessary for the formation
of collagen in the dermis of the skin.
Individuals can integrate
antioxidant treatment such as L-ascorbic acid with the other treatment
modalities i.e. glycolic acid and Tretinoin (Renova). These agents
do not have to be mutually exclusive, and results may improve with
the synergistic use of these modalities. Individuals may initially
complain of irritation, and if problematic the frequency of use
may be decreased. With increasing tolerance to the L-ascorbic acid
the frequency of use may be increased.
Moisturizers
Direct sunlight accelerates
the evaporation of moisture from the skin surface. Moisturizers
serve to hydrate the skin by providing an occlusive film that traps
water on the surface of the skin. When the skin is adequately hydrated,
the tendency for fine lines to appear is reduced.
These pages are
only a summary. They are not intended to diagnose or treat a medical
condition. If you have further questions or concerns consult with
your local physician or pharmacist.
